Todd's Travels in China: Day 15: Beijing Sites

Day 15 – Sun. Jan. 12: My last day before heading back to the States tomorrow. Our first stop of the morning (after a breakfast snack) was Jing Shan Park. Located just north of the Forbidden City, the highlight of the park is the spectacular view of the city from Wanchun Ting, the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Springs, which rests atop a hill created from the earth excavated while building the moat around the Forbidden City during the reign of Ming Emperor Yongle (reference Changling Tomb). The last Ming emperor, Chongzhen, hanged himself from a locust tree in the park in 1644 when rebel troops forced their way into Beijing. Until the fall of the Qing Dynasty (1911), Jing Shan was linked to the Forbidden City and was restricted to imperial use. On this morning, many women were performing traditional songs and dances throughout the park, and we took some beautiful pictures from Wanchun Pavilion.

Jing Shan Park Pavilion

Wanchun Pavilion

View of the Forbidden City from Wanchun Pavilion

Interior roof detail of Wanchun Pavilion

Detail of Confucius Temple (Qiwanglou) in Jing Shan Park

Roof detail of Confucius Temple (Qiwanglou) in Jing Shan Park

Next, we strolled South Luogu Lane. Built in 1267 during the Yuan Dynasty, it exemplifies the architectural concept of residential blocks with the lane serving as the central line dividing parallel hutongs on each side. A historical preservation site, South Luogu Lane has become a tourist mecca with many shops and services (hostels, backpacker hangouts, Starbucks, etc.) clearly targeted to foreign (i.e. English-speaking) tourists. There were plenty of rickshaw drivers offering to take you on a tour, but the street was so crowded that it’s hard to imagine how they could get through. One driver, napping in his cart, seemed content to let business come to him. It seemed easier and more enjoyable to walk. Along the way, we grabbed more snack food (a Chinese pancake, which is actually much like a French galette or crêpe, and some lamb skewers) before moving on to our next destination.

South Luogu Lane Hutong

The Lama Temple is the largest and best-preserved temple for the Gelug Sect (Yellow Hat Sect) of Lamaism (Tibetan Buddhism) in Beijing. It is also a treasure-house for cultural arts of the Han, Manchu, Mongolian, and Tibetan nationalities. Built in 1694 during the Manchu Qing Dynasty, the complex was originally the home first for court eunuchs and then for Prince Yin Zhen (who later became Emperor Yong Zheng). The highlight of the Lama Temple (Yonghe Gong), the most spectacular of Beijing’s temple complexes, is the 17-meter high statue of Maitreya (the Future Buddha) carved from a single block of candlewood in the Wanfu Pavilion (Wanfu Ge).

Lama Temple entrance gateway (Paifang)

Lama Temple (Harmony and Peace Palace Lamasery)

Hall of Wheel of Dharma

Hall of Harmony and Peace

Interior ceiling detail of Hall of Harmony and Peace

Wanfuge (Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses)

17-meter high Maitreya Buddha inside Wanfuge

Our last stop of the day was the Confucius Temple / Imperial College complex on Guozijian Street, a short walk from the Lama Temple. Established in 1306 (Mongol Yuan Dynasty), the college was the highest administrative organization and educational institution in the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. In addition to the splendid architectural buildings, the complex houses several exhibit halls that are treasure troves of historical and cultural information.

Confucius Temple

Glazed Memorial Arch to Imperial College

Biyong - Emperor's Lecture Hall

Exhibition of Restored Guozijian (Examination Room)

We ended our daily activities with a traditional Peking Duck dinner. Apparently there are only two places to get the authentic dish. The restaurant we went to, Bian Yi Fang, was originally established in 1416 and is the oldest Peking Duck restaurant in Beijing. We ordered more food than I thought we could eat, but it was so delicious that we had no problem finishing it all.

The Art of Carving Duck